If you're tired of that factory rake and huge wheel gap, installing an s10 lowering kit 4/5 is probably the single best way to give your Chevy S10 or GMC Sonoma a mean, aggressive stance. It's a classic setup for a reason—it's low enough to turn heads and get that "pro-touring" or "street truck" look, but it's still functional enough to drive every day if you're smart about how you put it together.
I've seen plenty of guys try to cheap out on lowering their trucks by just cutting coils or stacking huge blocks, but if you want it to actually handle well and not ride like a pogo stick, you've got to do it right. A 4/5 drop (meaning 4 inches in the front and 5 inches in the rear) is that sweet spot where the truck sits level and looks "tucked," but you aren't constantly scraping your frame on every leaf in the road.
Breaking Down the Front Drop
When you're looking at an s10 lowering kit 4/5, the front end is usually the most critical part to get right. To get a 4-inch drop up front, you generally have two main options, and trust me, one is definitely better than the other.
Most quality kits are going to use a combination of 2-inch drop spindles and 2-inch drop springs. This is the gold standard. The reason you want spindles is that they move the wheel hub upward without changing the actual suspension geometry. This means your control arms stay at the angle the factory intended, and your alignment won't be a total nightmare. If you tried to get all 4 inches of drop just from springs, your lower control arms would be pointing at the sky, and you'd have almost no suspension travel left. You'd be hitting the bump stops over every pebble, and your tires would wear out in about a week.
Now, some people will tell you to just use 3-inch springs and call it a day. Don't listen to them. Stick with the 2-inch spindle and 2-inch spring combo. It keeps the ride quality decent and makes sure you can actually get the truck aligned so it drives straight.
Getting the Rear to Sit Level
The back of the S10 is a different animal. From the factory, these trucks usually sit about an inch or two higher in the rear—that's the "stinkbug" look. That's why a 4/5 kit is so popular; that extra inch of drop in the back levels the whole thing out.
To get 5 inches of drop in the rear, you're usually looking at a mix of components. A common setup is a 3-inch lowering leaf spring combined with a 2-inch lowering block. Lowering blocks are super easy to install—they just sit between the axle and the leaf pack—but you don't want to go too big with them. If you try to run a 5-inch block, you're going to deal with a lot of "axle wrap," which is basically the axle trying to twist itself under acceleration. It feels like the back of your truck is hopping or shuddering when you take off from a stoplight.
By using a 3-inch leaf spring and a 2-inch block, you get the height you want without the weird side effects of giant blocks. Another option is using a shackle and hanger kit, but on the S10, the leaf and block combo is usually the most straightforward way to go for a 5-inch drop.
Why You Absolutely Need New Shocks
I can't stress this enough: if you install an s10 lowering kit 4/5 and try to keep your stock shocks, you're going to have a bad time. Your factory shocks are designed to operate at a certain height. When you drop the truck 4 or 5 inches, those shocks are basically fully compressed already. They have nowhere left to go.
You need "drop shocks" specifically designed for lowered trucks. These have a shorter body and different valving to handle the decreased travel. Without them, the truck will bounce uncontrollably, and you'll probably blow out the seals on your old shocks within the first ten miles. Most decent kits will either include these or offer them as an add-on. Don't skip them to save a few bucks; it's the difference between a truck that's fun to drive and one that's a total chore.
Dealing with the "S10 Lean"
If you've spent any time around S10s, you know about the "S10 lean." For some reason, these trucks often sit about half an inch to an inch lower on the driver's side. It's usually blamed on the weight of the fuel tank and the driver being on the same side.
When you install an s10 lowering kit 4/5, that lean can become even more noticeable because the truck is closer to the ground. Some guys fix this by using a slightly taller spring on the driver's side or using a small spacer. It's not something you have to fix, but once you notice it, you'll never un-see it. Just keep it in mind when you're doing your final measurements.
Clearance and the Dreaded C-Notch
When you drop the rear of an S10 by 5 inches, the axle gets very close to the frame. If you live somewhere with perfectly smooth roads, you might get away without a C-notch. But if you deal with potholes, speed bumps, or even just uneven highways, your axle is going to slam into the frame. It makes a loud "bang" and feels like the truck is breaking in half.
A C-notch is basically a piece of the frame you cut out and reinforce with a metal plate to give the axle more room to move upward. For a 5-inch rear drop, a "bolt-in" C-notch is a really good idea. It's a bit of extra work—you've got to get comfortable with a saw and a drill—but it makes the truck much more drivable. You won't have to cring every time you see a bridge expansion joint on the highway.
Wheels, Tires, and Scrubbing
Once you've got the s10 lowering kit 4/5 installed, you have to think about what's going to fill those wheel wells. If you're running the stock 15-inch "Swirl" or "Z06" style wheels, you'll probably be fine, though the tires might look a little small.
If you're upgrading to 18-inch or 20-inch wheels, you've got to be careful with your backspacing and tire width. With a 4-inch front drop, the tires can easily rub on the inner fender liners when you're turning or hitting a bump. Many guys end up removing the plastic inner liners or "massaging" them with a heat gun to make room.
A common tire size for a 4/5 drop is something like a 245/45R18. It's wide enough to look good but thin enough that it doesn't turn your turning radius into that of a school bus. Just remember: the lower you go, the more you have to pay attention to where your rubber meets the metal.
The Maintenance and Alignment Phase
After you get everything bolted up, don't just go for a high-speed joyride immediately. Everything needs a chance to settle. Drive it around the block a few times, let the springs find their "seat," and then go back and re-torque every single bolt. Suspension components can loosen up after those first few miles, and you don't want a lower control arm bolt backing out while you're on the freeway.
Most importantly, get an alignment immediately. Changing the spindles and springs completely throws off your toe and camber. Even if it "looks" straight, it isn't. You'll kill a pair of front tires in 500 miles if the alignment is out. Tell the alignment shop you've installed an s10 lowering kit 4/5 so they know they're dealing with non-factory specs.
Is It Worth It?
At the end of the day, an s10 lowering kit 4/5 transforms the truck. It goes from looking like a basic work vehicle to looking like a custom project. The center of gravity is lower, so it'll actually feel a bit more planted in the corners, and let's be honest—it just looks cool.
As long as you're prepared for a slightly stiffer ride and you're willing to keep an eye out for steep driveways, the 4/5 drop is a fantastic way to go. It's the perfect balance of "low but still a truck." Just take your time, get the right shocks, and don't forget that alignment. Your S10 will thank you for it.